A taste of Dar es Salam Nightlife

After a busy week at work, my second weekend in Tanzania arrived to welcome what I see as an unexpected social life. I was definitely in party mood since was missing Jorge's three days annual Uruguayan Asado, trust me you would like to be there: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1glJR4rap-A. My mom was there for me, and the kids were sure to have a blast that weekend! So my weekend started on Friday at 2:30 PM, which is when people leave their offices on that day, and when I was taken by my colleague/new friend Daines around shopping centers and "boutiques"of the Kinondoni area [the boutiques are essentially small shops in which you can't really tell whether you are purchasing second hand or brand new items].  I indulged myself in shopping for what seemed to be the hip South African brand in Dar at Mlimani shopping center. I didn't pack a single dress or alike as I imagined I was gonna be coming home every night to have a relaxing, quiet evening. I guess I was wrong.

After not going out to bars in like forever ago, doing so for three consecutive days was a complete revelation to me; yet one weekend of sleepless nights, weird drinks, OK music and random dudes checking you out was probably more than enough for me. But before you reach to the wrong conclusion, the impressions expressed are based on my limited experience in just an insignificant proportion of the plethora of bars located on the Msanani peninsula, which is where NGOs, expats, embassies, local government and other "elites" of Dar reside and go party. The company couldn't be better indeed as the "GU crew" was finally reunited with the happy arrival of Carolyn, Adeaza and Helena. Emman and Daines, our Tanzanian pals completed the group, plus some other really great people we met during this weekend.  The places per se, were on the other hand, less attractive to me...



The "pre-game" [I am not 100% percent of that means, but Carolyn explained to me is what younger people do these days before hitting the bars]... So as I was saying, the pre-game started at Lukas Pub,  where we had Mishkakis (beef kebab), broiled bananas (plantains, actually), broiled chicken, more potato chips and Emman's favorite beer, Castle Lite. I will back to DC "carrying" some extra pounds...

After "pre-gaming" we headed for Trinity Bar, which based on our anecdotical experience is the hotspot for ex-pats and tourists alike. But nobody was into paying the Tsh 10,000 cover to dance with the Wazungus (foreigners), particularly because the initial plan was live Bongo music and dancing. I did end up staying as I was supposed to meet there a Venezuelan girlfriend I'd been put in contact with the previous weekend. Social circles in Dar are pretty small. The open-air area consisted of a big hut with the bar, huge speakers and an audio/music mixing equipment controlled by a supposedly super famous DJ from somewhere I can't remember. I guess it could have been like many other bars on earth.  Now, the population in that bar, was composed of mostly Wazungos and few Africans, of which 50% were sex workers, or maybe even more... Well, I went through almost three hours of the whole environment to finally give up and run to where the "GU crew" and the others had departed a few hours ago. A bar called Elements. Music: Bongo mixed with hip hop and American music from the 90's. OK, that's better!  Demographics: hard to tell, but definitely less Wazungus :)  There we stayed dancing until 2 am to finally head back 'home'.

Despite an agitated previous night, Saturday morning started with a nice run along the beach avenue, finally exercising!! Then a whole afternoon of frustrated attempts to get a pedicure done. It was 5 of us without an appointment, so it was probably very hard anyway. When the night came some sleeping beauties stayed home :) , but Adeaza and I went to a friend's birthday party I'd been invited the previous weekend. I promise, my real life in DC is not like this at all. The reunion was hosted by a lovely South African couple who live in a beautiful house in Dar. We spent the evening chatting with our new friend Christin about gender issues and some of her interesting work in Africa. I had a great time there. The after-party took place at Q-Bar and Guesthouse. Another popular place like Trinity bar, although that night they had music from the 90's. Go figure how people get some sleep in that place... The 'attraction' there was a performance given by a couple of skinny contortionists who were bending their bodies to the beat of the music while the Wazungu public formed a circle around them. The whole scene was just irritating to my eyes, but that being said, if I lived in Dar and there were not many options in terms of places to go out, I'd likely go back to Q-Bar. I really liked the setting on the second floor's deck. Here a pic form there:



Sunday was wisely reserved to rest at the beach. This time, the destination was Bongoyo Island, another gem of Dar's marine reserve. Carolyne, Helena and I took a 30 minutes boat ride from Slipway to encounter a nice peninsular shaped beach. It was similar to Mbudya Island but not as nice. We relaxed all day long, sunbathing, swimming and taking short walks on the island.  When we got home, there was Eman and Aedeza ready to take us to a life music venue.  Are you kidding? It was time to rest!! All in all, this busy social life has been a blessing as it has avoided prolonged sad times when I think of Manu and Kaia back home. Eight weeks left from today ( I am behind posts)...

WEEK 1

OK busy people, I so wanted to start a Blog to share this new experience with you all, but after one week of trying, I have finally given up. Well, not quite, but to resume, my adventure started in the town of Bogamoyo with the Rafiq’s, who have been so wonderful and have been taking care of me so nicely. I’ll tell you, having family-friends in town, does make a difference! 

I spent my first weekend in TZ visiting the Rafiq’s friends and relatives, and going to the beach most of the days. Oh, and eating!! Mixmix, Pilao, fried cassava, beef curry, fried fresh fish, Chai, and some other dishes, which names I've forgotten for now. I headed for the Bogamoyo beach on the first day to catch up with Hannah on a whole year of stories while we eat sweet mandarins, buried our feet in the sand, and listened to the Bongo music that was played at some expat’s hotel nearby. My lord, it felt like a dream to be in TZ with her! You will find some interesting pictures of the town as you scroll down, and a few descriptions, which some of you have already seen on Face. 

A highlight of my first weekend is my visit to the Rafiqui's landlord’s family --it'd have been offensive if Hannah/Yunus did not take me there--."Salam Alaikum", we greeted everyone and then sat to chat in the living room; a nice and fresh area furnished with a Middle Eastern carpet and cushions, where we sat to chat and have Arabic coffee and dates.  Two cups were enough to another sleepless night, but how could I resist? The family was just so lovely and welcoming, was even invited to a wedding that week (see pictures below!). I did miss 100% of the conversation, as Swahili is not part of my repertoire, which made me arrange for some lessons with Abdul – Yunus’s uncle –. I’ve taking lessons every day since last Monday. Did you guys know that one sentence in Swahili is constructed almost as a single word? Such as “Ninakula pilao” which means, “I am eating pilao”! I find it very interesting. 

After a much-needed break in Bogamoyo, I came back to Dar es Salam on Monday, ready to jump into work. The week was fairly busy as I was working with the regional M&E advisor (Alison) and my new colleague Chela on the design of the research protocol for my fieldwork assignment. Nothing has worked out as expected, which is expected anyway, but things have been moving along quite well so far [some of you can find the details on the GU Blog!]. Despite the workload, I’ve managed to have fun as well. Not everything has to be work, right? [See more pictures at the bottom!!].  All that being said, no having Manu and Kaia around has been a bit hard. I finally was able to Skype them last Tuesday, after numerous attempts to get connected to the Internet. Kaia was very talkative, as usual, mentioning everything about her day at the Splashes’ with Lulu and other little friends. But my Manu was not into talking to me at first. The conversation kind of went like this:

Me: Hi Corazon, how’re you?! Miss u so much!

Manu: I hate you…

Me: Have u been having fun with Abuelita Meco and Ajji?

Manu: Silence

Me: So, Jahangir and Asuaka really wished you were here. They are going to install Mine-Craft in my iPad, so you can play when I’m back!

Manu: Does Jahangir and Ausuaka have Mind-Craft in Africa? – Finally showing some interest…

Me: -all excited—Yes, following up the conversation with some “I love you very much” and kisses here and there.

Manu: Stop doing that. I’m going to hang up on you –laughing at this point.

Me: I’m going to tickle you then!, moving my fingers

Manu: Hung up on me

Me: Called back

Manu: Laughing and asking questions about TZ and the kids

Me: I replied and “tickled him” until I said goodbye.

Manu: Hung up, but then called back.

We went on hanging up and calling back for three rounds until He finally asked me to hang up, putting a face like “I don’t want to be the one hanging up on you”!.  OMG, I do hope I can make it until the end…  

Above, a typical road in Bogamoyo ... Don't get fooled by appearances [I kind of did as I didn't have time to get better informed before traveling]... Bogamoyo was actually the first capital of Tanzania (original capital of German East Africa) and main arabic slave trade of the East Africa Coast. Not surprisingly, it'll be named a world heritage site by UNESCO!  It is indeed a very rich place, culturally speaking, influenced by Arabs, Indians, German colonists and Christian missionaries. Bogamoyo is also well known as an artistic town, home of the famous and only art school in its class of Tanzania “Chuo cha Sanaa”. Now the Chinese have also come to build roads and promote commerce, probably influenced by TZ current president, a son of Bogamoyo town. 

With Hannah at Abdul's house. He's a journalist and member of the Lion's club member who invited the family for dinner on Sunday. We had a nice conversation that night, which informed me about the rich history of Bogamoyo. We'll post his photo once I get it from Hannah :)

At the wedding!!! 

Some of the guests, no guys were allowed, except for the groom. 

This is Dura, the Rafiq's landlord wife. She said I should come to live in TZ! 

Do I look exhausted guys? It did take me a whole week and a couple pills of Ambien to get rid of the jetlag! 

Looking gorgeous!! 

The singers. I think they played Bongo, and some other vibrant Rhythms with, I think, Arabic and/or Indian influence 

Having lunch during work. Massive! 

At my office, isn't cute?  

One evening of relax at Dar es Salam after work. I forgot to pack sandals, so got those at one of the most expensive Malls in Dar -Slipway- for $TSH 10,000 (12USD), not bad at all. 

The First weekend after work! 

On Saturday I headed for Mbudya Island, a beautiful little piece of heaven just 40 minutes from Dar! I was actually invited by Alison to join a group of friends that day. Had a great day hanging out with everybody. My day finished with a nice dinner with a interesting group of expats. Much to learn about the development fieldwork!

The Reality Tour

And this is how my first week in TZ ended. A bike tour around some of the most underprivileged areas of Dar. 

Coffee and local sweets to start the day. 

 

Where we had breakfast. African Chapati and tea.. 

She's a traditional midwife and healer. Now, that was a bonus! Below, some pictures of a traditional pharmacy. 

The cinema, TSH100 to watch a movie. 

Cinema 

Cinema 

Cinema 

The movie 

The movies 

At the market 

Alison got an admirer 

We all joined the fun! 

Kids dancing Bongo! 

Clothes for sale 

My admirer :) 

The End

Weekend finished with more Pilao and goat curry for lunch at Kariakoo market, -- no pictures as they recommend not to bring ANYTHING --, and me finally writing this Blog. Safari, wild animals and other wonders are yet to come, but as Hannah said to me last weekend, you have traveled more these days than you will do in the next two months. Hope you enjoyed it! 

N.